The colors or numbers themselves are often a clue, but they alone may not provide sufficient information. There is always the trial and error method, but I do not recommend that because of the potential for destructive results. Instead, the Motor Doctors suggestion is to equip yourself with an ohmeter (don nott settle for just a continuity tester) and learn to perform a few simple tests with it.
A simple, experimental motor such as this is not capable of making much power. We can increase the turning force (or torque) that the motor can create in three ways: either we can have a more powerful permanent magnet, or we can increase the electric current flowing through the wire, or we can make the coil so it has many "turns" (loops) of very thin wire instead of one "turn" of thick wire. In practice, a motor also has the permanent magnet curved in a circular shape so it almost touches the coil of wire that rotates inside it. The closer together the magnet and the coil, the greater the force the motor can produce.
Note! Not all drives allow the use of a ferrite sleeve around power conductors. Refer to your manuafacturer’s manual for specific applications.
Bonding should be by the widest practical means. Wide cable tray is effective when it is made of zinc plated steel and carefully bonded at the ends to control panel and motor frame. Zinc plated sheet steel channel is also effective. The fact that the width is folded into a U shape does not matter. A closing lid helps. Solid steel conduit bonded at both ends is effective. The spiral construction of flexible conduit makes it less attractive for RF shielding because the spiral shape forms an inductor, even with partially shorted turns.