Depending on the fuse design, it is sometimes possible to tell whether it has blown by holding it up against a light; a break in the wire inside may be visible. Another clue is blackening of the glass cover. If there is no visible sign, check by fitting another fuse of the same rating; if that cures the trouble, then the fuse was to blame.
The other, probably rated at about 20-30 amps, protects components not wired through the ignition — horns, interior lights and the cigarette lighter. Where a single fuse protects a number of circuits and keeps blowing, each circuit must be checked individually to discover which one is faulty.
The starter motor has its own heavy cable, direct from the battery. The ignition circuit furnishes the high-tension impulses to the sparkplugs; and the charging system includes the generator, which recharges the battery. All the other circuits are called ancillary (subsidiary) circuits.
However, a component with a high current consumption must not be connected using wires which are too thin, or the wires will overheat, blow a fuse, or burn out.